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Ice climbing protection point settings
Hail protection point
In the event that a protection point can be found, it is not advisable to use hailstone as a protection point. The hailstone protection point is only suitable in hard snow.
Ice Cones
Ice cones are an indispensable climbing tool for ice climbing enthusiasts. Most of them are now used for tubular spiral ice cones. After the spiral cone of ice enters the body of the ice, the part of the ice that the ice cone occupies will be unscrewed from the center of the cone. This kind of ice cone has a snap ring at the top of the ice cone. Its function is to connect the fast hanging and to screw in the ice cone. The length of tubular ice cone is generally 22 cm and 17 cm. One type of ice cone is in and out, and the other is hammer in and out. This kind of ice cone is characterized by fast installation speed and is suitable for operation under difficult conditions.
Spiral cones are made of aluminum and steel. The advantages of aluminum ice cones are light weight, easy to carry and operate; disadvantages are the top bendable, blunt, and high price. The advantages of steel ice cones are durability and reasonable price; the disadvantage is heavy weight, which brings inconvenience to carrying and operation. If climbing a long distance ice wall, it is recommended to carry less steel picks.
There is also an old type of ice cone. Its design is all solid and it is hammered in and it is difficult to remove. This type of ice cone can also be used when the hardness of the ice is soft, but it is easy to crack and loosen the ice surface when the ice hardness is high or when it is used on brittle ice. In modern ice climbing, this type of ice cone has rarely been used.
Ice cone placement
When selecting the location of the ice pick, the first ice part to be selected must be hard, strong, and unbreakable, and the second selected point of protection does not affect the climbing of the companion and avoid placing the ice cone on the icicle or the corners of the ice. It is better to have a footing point when placing the ice cones. The location of the ice cones should not be too high or too low with respect to the body. It is best to use the right position and the height is best around the head.
On the vertical ice wall, the placement of the ice cone is preferably inclined upwards, at an angle of 10-15 degrees with the horizontal plane. After clearing the angle, remove the ice floes and soft ice in the place where the ice cones are placed. After the hard ice is exposed, screw it into the ice cone. It should be noted that there must be enough space on the ice to allow the ice picker collar to rotate freely for easy placement and removal of the ice pick. If the ice cone cannot be screwed into the ice surface, the rope sleeve should be placed on the ice cone as close to the ice surface as possible to reduce the moment and make the ice cone reach its maximum bearing capacity.
When precessing or hammering into the ice cone, if there is a change in the hardness of the ice, it should be taken out and replaced; if it is found that resistance is difficult to screw in, it should be stopped immediately, check whether the rock is encountered, and if it is harder, it will damage the tip of the ice cone, Especially made of aluminum ice cones. If the length of the ice cone is screwed in safely enough, a sleeve can be set at the junction of the ice cone and the ice surface.
To avoid installing ice cones on the melted ice wall, the strength of the ice that is melted by the heat drops sharply.
Ice hook
The use of hooks as protection points was used for rock climbing in the past, but now it is also used for climbing ice. Ice hooks are made of steel. The advantage of ice hooks is to find structures that do not break the ice when the ice hooks can be placed. In the absence of ice cones in suitable locations, ice hooks can also be used as ice cones to hammer directly into the ice.
Ice protection point
The most common icicle. When you encounter the icicle, put a rope around it and hang the iron lock to become a protection point. When the icicles are thin, water cones should be used as a secondary protection point.
The artificial ice hole protection point is formed by two ice cones that intersect with the ice surface at a certain angle to form a channel from which the rope passes through the protection point. It is required that the length of the cone of ice coning into the ice surface be at least 15 cm. Note that the ice layer between the channels must not be destroyed.
Rock wall protection point
During ice climbing, rock or ice rock mixed terrain is often encountered, which requires some rock cones when climbing ice. The most effective rock cones are rock block plugs and mechanical plugs, both of which are easy to break in and out. There must be at least 6 rock cones on the ice climbing wall.