ANDREW JACKSON has a saying well: "Thinking is necessary, but when it comes to this action, don't worry about it, let's get it!" When you come to the difficult point, you must stop cranky, believe in the physical system (rope, fast hanging , hanging pieces, protectors, rope connection knots) and your own ability. After entering the difficulties, you should focus on climbing instead of thinking about falling off. You need a more open, more confident way of doing things. It allows you to see hope for success and stay focused. Accept uncomfortable feeling trust yourself Practical application Climber Network Authorized Outdoor Information Network
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Some time is used for thinking, and some time is for action. Thinking should be done when you are on the ground or at a break on the route. When you are in difficulty, end the process of thinking and let the body climb.
The climb at the extreme edge is uncomfortable both physically and psychologically, and your subconscious mind will want to escape this discomfort. An evasive strategy is to find excuses, such as "muscle soreness, can not climb." or "I really do not want to fall." And so on. Do not try to escape. On the contrary, you should accept this uncomfortable situation. This is an integral part of hard climbing.
Another discomfort is the feeling of losing control. Many climbers want to know what they are waiting for in front of them and want to be sure that they can pass through the difficulties without falling off. But when the difficulty of the route is large enough, you don't know what will happen next, and you don't know if you can succeed. A conservative and overly cautious attitude can not pass you through challenging challenges. Unhelpful over-control behaviors include over-grabbing, static climbing, resisting falling, slowing down or pausing, extra retreating, catching and hanging, and holding your breath. These behaviors give you a wrong sense of control; they actually stop your climbing process. Instead, you should believe in your climb and believe in providing you with a protective security system.
Extreme climbing is an opportunity for learning. You must take a learning attitude to climb a difficult route. With confidence in the entire process, you will be able to devote yourself to uncomfortable climbing in an open manner and allow you to gain from your persistent efforts. To move from a conservative, overly controlled behavior to a confident action, you need to do the opposite of the above illustration - don't overdo it, use some dynamics, accept the possibility of a fall, continue climbing, and, breathe. Using these techniques, you can let your body focus on climbing, so that your thinking avoids the interference of excuses.
While warming up, practice continuous climbing and breathing. When you approach the end of the route, practice several crashes. When on the ground, check the safety system - ropes, equipment, protectors, etc. If there is no problem, then relax the anxiety in your mind because you know that the protection system is perfectly safe. Then, separate the simple part from the hard part. Below each difficulty, you must be prepared to rest and find possible climbing actions. Once difficult, you must continue to climb and focus on the front. At this point, there may still be doubts that distract you, but even if it does not matter, just leave them and concentrate on climbing. I believe that I can accept the challenge and go forward courageously. The momentum you gain will increase your ability to make you successful at the REDPOINT or ONSIGHT climb. 